A Missed Opportunity, Serving the Size 14+ Consumer
A largely underserved segment within the fashion industry is fashionable apparel for consumers who wear size 14 and higher. In 1980 the average size was size eight now 40 years later it is size 16. Although 67% of Americans wear a size 16 and above this segment of the market is largely ignored. According to the New York Times, annual expenditures on larger sized clothing only represents 16% of sales in the $112 billion apparel market in the United States. This is not by choice it is because of limited supply.
In addition to a lack of supply, consumers shopping within this segment are often stigmatized. Within retail stores the “plus” department is often located in the back of the store or on another level. Many designers refuse to make their clothes above a certain size especially within the luxury segment. It is telling that as recent as 2017 for the first time in Vogue’s history it featured a “plus-sized” model on its cover, Ashley Graham.
Even when the industry tries to serve this segment clothing tends to less fashionable as most of the attention is given to clothing that is made for consumers wearing smaller sizes. Retailers that continue to ignore this segment are missing an important opportunity to better serve the majority of society. While retailers continue to battle it out in traditional arenas there is a growing number of retailers that have identified the opportunity within the size 14+ market and are capitalizing on it. Some of these retailers are Fashion Nova, ModCloth, and ThirdLove.
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Close to 75% of ModCloth’s clothing is available in sizes XXS to 4X. In a report from the Washington Post, Mathew Kaness, CEO of ModCloth said: "a lot of brands think very narrowly about who their customer is. There's this belief that ‘plus-size’ customers simply don't spend as much — but that is only because of a lack of choice."
Lingerie company ThirdLove has also had success by catering to the needs of women of all sizes. It offers bras in 78 sizes. Demand for larger sizes is only increasing as evidenced by a 500,000 person long waiting list it had for bras in sizes such as 44G and 46K.
Clothing sizes at Fashion Nova go up to size 3X. In an interview with Paper magazine, Fashion Nova CEO Richard Saghian said: “lots of fast fashion retailers offer trend pieces at low prices with quick, convenient shipping. Fewer create items that are suited to body types not seen in typical fashion campaigns. All our other competitors were always using the same models over and over. We thought we could be a little different by celebrating body positivity and using curvier girls and the customers liked it." Instead of offering a separate line of clothing for curvy women Fashion Nova offers many items in sizes ranging from extra small to 3X. Fashion Nova responded to customer feedback that their customers wanted the exact same style that may have only come in smaller sizes before.
lululemon started offering clothing in extended sizes for a selection of its assortment last year. The new sizes will extend lululemon’s size range up to size 20. Previously most of lululemon’s clothing went up to a size 14 with a few pieces offered in size 16. lululemon calls the new initiative a “start” and more extended sizes are on the way. But critics argue the brand isn’t going far enough since it isn’t offering a broader range (i.e. up to size 34)
The opportunity within the size 14+ segment is real and consumers are clamouring for it.